Tuesday, August 30, 2016

R.I.P. Uncle Rico

“What’s that?”
“Why is my alarm going off so early?”
“Oh wait, my phone is ringing.”

This can’t be good. No one calls in the middle of the night. It’s Latino. He woke me from a really deep sleep, but I’m trying so hard to understand what he is saying. If he is calling in the middle of the night, there must be a robber! Wake up Amanda!

Uncle Rico’s dad is dead.

Let me back up a minute. When we hire a new worker that doesn’t speak English, one of the first things I do is give them a nickname. It’s never fun to hear your name in a conversation and wonder, “What are they saying about me.” So I give nicknames that only Nunu, Latino and I use. If you follow The Widow’s Might on Facebook, you’ve probably seen me refer to Bounassa, our main guard, as Mr. B.

Early this year when we needed a new guard, we asked Mr. B’s youngest brother Raul if he wanted to guard for us. Shortly after we hired him, I gave him the name Uncle Rico (yes as in Napoleon Dynamite).

So back to my phone call.

“Uncle Rico’s dad is dead?” My brain is trying to process, is this Mr. B’s dad too?
Latino keeps talking, “no Uncle Rico got hit on his motorcycle, they took him to the hospital and he died. Uncle Rico is dead.”
“Wait are you saying Uncle Rico, Raul is dead or he is in the hospital?”

“He is dead.”

“Woah.” I’m finally awake.

“Does Mr. B need to go. Tell him he can leave.”

I get off the phone. Nunu and I just lay there both taking turns, saying “Raul is dead?” It’s shocking, he was only 22 or 23.  For me, I hear of death so often here but this is the closest I’ve come to it. The first person I’ve actually known.

The next morning, we wake to get some more details. First off, bless his heart, Mr. B went to the hospital around 12:30 and then came back to continue to work around 3 or 4. It turns out that Uncle Rico and a friend were driving to a village 20 – 30 minutes further out of town and a woman hit the bike. They were both thrown from it. Uncle Rico died at the hospital and his friend is paralyzed.
As we are getting ready to go to Uncle Rico’s house to pay our respects, I ask Nunu when the funeral will be and he says, “today.” Oh okay. Out of respect, I wear a floor length skirt and t-shirt that covers my shoulders.

At about 9:30, Nunu and I left to walk over to Uncle Rico’s. As we near his house, you can tell something is going on in the village. There are more people than usual.

We stop and talk to a guy that has a cut lip. Nunu heard that he fought off a robber, but not before his lip got cut and he got a machete to his shoulder blade. Turns out the robber is the guy that we met and prayed for a few weeks back out near our other property making charcoal. He is now in jail.

We turn the corner to Uncle Rico’s street and look for Mr. B. I see lots of men gathered near Uncle Rico’s house and then glance over to see all the ladies sitting under a large tree. We find Mr. B and seeing him, my eyes water. Mr. B is one of the coolest guys you could ever meet. He is such a smiley, happy, amazing guy. He is such a present father. He is so much that most the men around him aren’t. To see him obviously hurting is really hard for me.

He asks if we want to see the body. I’m just sort of freaked out at this moment. Not sure what I’m supposed to do. Not wanting exceptions to be made for me because I’m white or Mr B’s boss. But honestly not really wanting to leave Nunu’s side. Mr. B says I can go see the body too, but I could tell he hesitated.

Just then Nunu looks over and he sees Binti, Mr. B’s wife! Big sigh of relief, I love Binti and I know even if I don’t understand what is going on, she will take good care of me =)

I wade through the sea of women and their colorful capulanas (African fabric), until I reach Binti and her youngest, Sonya. Binti walks me over to a big tire, so I can sit. I sort of hate that. I can sit on the ground too. Binti sits on the tire, so I join her and we play with Sonya.

Binti, asks me if I want to go see LaHoova, Mr B and Uncle Rico’s mom. She is one of the first women I met in Muxara. So while the introvert in me, would just rather sit in the dirt and observe with everyone else, I go.

We walk into LaHoova’s house. It’s really dark, if she has power, there are no lights on. As I walk into the house, I have to step very carefully. The room we are walking into is about 9’ x 7’ and there are about 15 of the oldest women from our village, some that I’ve never met. A couple of them shook my hand and I felt like they were saying, “Do you remember me?”

I finally found LaHoova laying in the corner, the only one not in a capulana. I couldn’t even tell what she was wearing, but it’s the first time I’ve seen her not in a capulana. As I approached, she pushed her torso off the ground and looked up at me with such devastation. All I could say was, “very sorry” in Portuguese and hope she understood. As I hugged her close and rubbed her back, I prayed for her. I offered her my water bottle and helped her to some water. Knowing my words are inadequate (even if I spoke Macua), I gave her what I could.

Back outside at our tire, I leaned up against it this time and just watched as the women kept coming to pay their respects. I watched as women head to toe draped in capulana sit down, they would casually glance in my direction.

As time went on, the women all talked. I just sat, understanding the occasional word in Macua. In the shade of the big mango tree, the temperature was perfect, but each breeze would bring a slight chill and the women around me would bundle up. They kept asking if I was cold? I love that.

I made the most of my time under the tree, drinking in all of the colorful capulanas as they walked by, listening to women wailing, wondering who they are and what Uncle Rico meant to them, however even on the most comfortable of couches, I change positions a lot. Under that tree, while keeping modesty in mind, I sat “indian style” except both of my feet were not under me, one foot was on my lap. I didn’t think anything of it, until there was a unified gasp that carried around me, it was hilarious. People typically sit with their legs straight out in front of them. I think the women honestly thought something was wrong with my body for it to move like that.

A few hours passed sitting under that tree. Nunu kept saying I think we are about to go to the cemetery, but nothing would happen.

Finally, I noticed all of the men on their feet but none of the women moved, so I too sat. Then a crowd of men started walking away from us down the street. Above their heads was what looked like a huge box with a rounded top, covered in capulanas. I found out later that it was a traditional woven bed, not a box.

A couple of women lost it. I felt a tear roll down my cheek. As I watched his body be carried away, and wiped my eyes, I turned back to my little group of women. One of them looked at me and laughed, a few others snickered. I don’t know why.

My first thought is, is it because I’m white? Do they think my tears are insincere? Then I get insecure, did Uncle Rico say bad things about us after we had to let him go? Or even before? I’ll never really know, but man I need to learn Macua.

The women never get up. One women does and she returns with a metal bowl. I hear the change jingle inside (Harbert – it was a noisy offering!). I look into my purse and get 25 mzn, it’s three coins. As I notice the girl get closer I see that everyone else is only putting one coin and they are mostly 2mzn coins. It’s to late to put a coin or two back in my purse. Ugh… where is the instruction manual for attending a funeral in these parts?!

The girl passes me by, which was actually kind of nice that she didn’t assume I would give. The ladies around me called her back and I did my best to make my three coins drop in as one coin.

A few minutes later, I see a few boys and the men follow shortly after. Slowly the women start to get up and leave, so I go find Nunu and Latino at this point.

My first question to Latino, “why didn’t the ladies go?” “That’s just not how it is done here.” “What if it’s a woman who dies? Is it still just men that go?” “Yes.” I’ve seen other funeral walks and there are women, so I point that out. Latino’s response, “Those were Christian funerals, this was a Muslim.” Oh.

As we go home, I just keep thinking to myself. Uncle Rico has barely been dead 12 hours and he is already in the ground. Wow, that was fast.

As custom requires, Mr. B and his family sit vigil at Uncle Rico’s house for three days. We are actually required by law to give Mr. B five days off and they don’t count against his holidays, but he returned after three days.  

Uncle Rico, Raul, was a bit of a loose cannon but I’ll never forget him. We hired him right after the robberies. I knew that if anyone so much as looked over our fence Raul would have given chase machete in hand… so that he could have a story to tell. I slept good knowing he was out there, knowing that he was just the right amount of crazy to protect us.

Rest in Peace Uncle Rico.

Raul, on the right, handing out candy on Children's Day 2015.

Monday, August 15, 2016

Tata Wooo!

The next day we returned to Nanua, to bring paint for marking the edge of the property and to see the progress. Since Nunu had to run to the store to buy the paint, we arrived around noon.

We set off on the path to our property, winding our way through tall grass and small trees, and then BAM a clear field! Sure there was a huge pile of cut trees and grass, but you could see the Baobab tree from so much further away! The guys had been out there since 5am, what did I expect?!


Nunu set out to find the property boundaries with his managers, while Sandy, Matthew and I set out to start cutting grass.

Have I mentioned yet that Nanua in Macua, the local tribal language, means snake?! As you can imagine with each step and swing of our hoe, this thought is in all of our minds. Latino told Matthew a story about a guy he knew getting bit and how they had to suck out the venom out of this guys leg. A couple times Matthew jokingly mentioned that we needed to keep a Mozambican close by, incase we needed someone to suck out some venom! I’m happy to report that other than a possible mouse, we didn’t see anything.

We left that day excited having new friends and a clearer image of what our property really looked like… but mostly excited to come back on Friday to play soccer!

When we arrived on Friday, all the cut greens had wilted and we got an even better glimpse of the property. We walked as much of the edge as possible and I used a walking app to get a better idea of the properties size. I’ve used this info, google maps and photoshop to estimate that the property is about 540’ x 650’ which is about 8 acres!! We paid less than $1,000 for this =)
Don't you just love technology!
We are currently talking with the Chief of the Village to get his approval for what we are wanting to do (Community Center for ministry and farming). He is sort of flexing his muscles and we are trying to play by the rules. Nunu basically told him that we would like to do some farming and if the community is supportive and good to us, then we will expand beyond that. Basically saying the nicer you are to us, the more jobs we will have for your village over time!

After walking the property, we went down the paved road a little bit to the local field at the school. As we were following our friends to the field, we walked past a couple of mud buildings with bamboo benches. When I saw a white board, it hit me, “this is the school?!” I don’t really have words, but imagine kids beg to be sent to school!
 
Local School
Sandy and I were led to someone’s “porch” and told this is where we should put our chairs to sit. It didn’t take long for a group of children to form around us and a couple of women came to say hello. One lady told us she was going to get water to take her bath… I love the randomness of that!
 
Sandy watching the game.

What a beauty.
We sat and watched the guys who had worked so hard on our property this week, now running full speed with huge smiles on their faces, chasing a little yellow ball. Isn’t it amazing?


The kids were just as fun to watch. I made a little friend, we raised eye brows at each other a few times. Sandy and I laughed as the first goal was scored and the kids went crazy, all jumping and running out onto the field. Cartwheels and karate kicks galore! I thought I was watching the last 20 seconds of the World Cup!
 
I dare you not to be pulled in by his face. 
It was also great because Matthew was playing. As the only white guy out there, every time he touched the ball, the kids would laugh and point. It was great. At one point the ball was heading out of bounds, and two guys in unison did bicycle kicks (basically doing a back flip, trying to kick the ball backwards over your head, and you land on the ground on your back). It was AMAZING! I yelled “Woooooooo!” And then I heard an echo and a lot of giggles. So naturally I kept wooing and the kids kept echoing me.


The day ended, selfie stick in hand, walking off the field with more excited kids than I could count trailing behind. As I sat in the car trying to wave goodbye, one little girl looked at me and said, “Tata Wooo” (Good-bye Wooo).

Tata Nanua, until next time.

Love, Wooo