Monday, September 19, 2016

Building A House for Grandma

While walking through our village trying to check in on some kids who haven’t been going to tutoring, we stumbled across a house being built. I love this kind of stuff.

The new house. See all the buckets!
Building a house is very much part of culture here. Some houses are built out of block, but most in the villages are built of bamboo and a combination of mud, rock and for some, cement.

First the men dig a series of holes about 2 feet apart and 3 feet deep, then they put large sticks in these holes and pack the dirt back in. I always love finding a house with it’s holes dug but no sticks. It looks like connect the dots, and when you connect them you get a house floor plan!

Next they lay bamboo horizontally across the sticks and tie them into place with what I call tire rope (an old tire that has been cut into thin strips), wire or something else rope like.

A little game of peek-a-boo through the wall.
Notice the black on the left, that is the tire rope. On the left is also
one of the sticks that is inserted to the hole in the ground, then the tire rope
is used to attached two bamboo halves. 

The bamboo gets attached to both the inside an outside of the stick, creating a space for either mud or rocks. Next the roof beams go up and then the roof goes on.

Inside corner with roof support. If you look close, you can see in the corner they
used another type of "rope" not sure what this is. 

Once the roof is on, it’s the women’s turn to work. They gather huge piles of red dirt and bucket of water to make little bricks (more like balls) of mud that they place between the two pieces of bamboo.
More buckets, I just love all the different colors!
Latino and one of the granddaughters filling the wall.
Nice "brick" work Latino!

As we came across the house being built, there was a group of women working on the mud walls. What I love about this is it looks more like a party than a work day. Imagine four generations of females in your family gathering to get the job done, about 20 people. The oldest probably being 80 and the youngest, less than a month old, spending the day on her back in the shade.

The oldest women in the group holding the youngest.
Grandma is getting a new home!
Because we know one of the women working on the house, we are welcomed in and invited to look around. I am so impressed, this is the largest mud house I have ever been in! A typical mud house bed room is no more than 9’x9’ often even 7’x6’. These rooms were 10’x12’, I’m not sure why but this encourages me and makes me happy. I guess I’ve just seen so many houses and wondered, “How on earth does this entire family fit in here?”

We learned that the home would be for the oldest woman and most of the work was being done by her granddaughters. The granddaughters we talked to had come in from Pemba to help do the work, while the older ladies cared for the smallest babies.

I asked if they would like me to take a picture of their whole family. It was hilarious. They had never taken a group picture before, so Latino was trying to help them figure out how to stand close to each other. He showed them to put their arms around each other’s shoulders. I was messing with my camera and when I looked back up, one woman placed her hand on her sisters head, rather than on her shoulder. Then when Latino came behind me, he put his hand up in the air and was counting to 3 for me to take the picture. I don’t think he realized but he was counting in English. Before I could correct him, I noticed that all the ladies were putting their hands in the air, mimicking his hand in the air counting. It was classic...

The shade made it hard to get a full group picture, but I love
how intense these women look. 
Latino trying to show the ladies to stand closer together
and put their arms around each others shoulders.  
Hands in the air, counting down!

It brings a smile to my face thinking of some day down the road. If someone offers to take a group picture of them…  will they all put their hands up in the air?

Friday, September 9, 2016

The Ants Go Marching...

I woke to the barking of a dog behind our house, it was Athena. With a new guard only a few days in and Athena barking a lot more than usual, I asked Nunu to check it out. He got up and talked to the guard through the window... there were stray dogs walking past the house. 

Nunu gets back into bed but I'm awake and decide I might as well go to the bathroom. First, I go look at the dogs out the front window. They are running around the yard, which isn't exactly normal at 3am. But my eyes are diverted to the towel draped over our back up water bucket. It's covered in ants. That's weird, I'm looking at ants outside the house and I'm feeling like they are biting me!

Odd I head to the bathroom and start turning on lights. There are ants in the hall, and they are coming from the bathroom door. I open the door and the far corner is covered. I go back into our room, turn on the lights to get Nunu and noticed the wall by our bed has a couple hundred ants and there are a handful of them on our bug net?! This is so strange. 

I have some bug spray and so spray down the clusters and Nunu and I go outside to see what the heck is going on. First thing I notice is the ants are all over the porch (where the dogs sleep) and the dogs are acting really strange, running around, stopping chewing, getting up running from something, stopping chewing and repeat, all three of them.

One side of our house has a trail from left to right (30 feet) and the trail is12 inches wide the entire way, some section have even more! Nunu empties the bottle of bug spray, all the while we feel little bites on our feet. It's crazy.

We go back inside, as their isn't much else to do. We try to pick all the ants off the bug net and check to see if any have made it inside the bed. They have. We try to get them all and try to sleep. Ten minutes in and I've pulled one ant from my hair line at the nape of my neck and another from the elastic in my underwear!!! In addition to 3 or 4 more than I smash in my fingers. 

Dead ants on my side of the bed. 
The shower floor, post bug spray.
There is NO WAY I'm going back to sleep!

I stay in bed and read, until I see the sun coming up. Nunu is asleep, and I figure one of us should be sort of rested.

I went out to access the situation... 

The dark lines are trails of ants walking away from the house!
Dead ants that fell from the wall.
Bug gear... PJ's, rubber boots, headlamp and bug spray!
Ants on the towel over our water bucket. 
Close up!! Look at those pinchers!!
Dead ant that has it's pinchers stuck in my shoe.

I spend the next 2 hours boiling water and dumping it on all of the ants I can find. 

I later learn that we aren't the only ones being "attacked" others in our village have these ants too, just not as many. Our guard, Mr. B, tells me this is common, not the type of common that happens everyday but it happens. 

Some research online makes me think these are called bigheaded ants. Sounds like they could have come out because it's the dry season and it's been a really dry year. I also read something that they sort of overtake colonies of existing ants.

Day 2:

Each day, they would almost all disappear, only to come back out at dusk. We tried filling holes in with ash, but then they would just pop up from another spot. It was madness!



Crawling into a hole on the side of the house!
Nice find Athena, but wrong bug.
Day 3:
One little bugger got me, pinchers dug in, just like on the shoe!
It hurt!!

Two live ones stuck on my boots!

Day 5: 
I honestly went out and thought they were gone! Until I found this massive group of them that can only best be described as a web. I dumped boiling water on them and Mr. B, our guard, made some torches and we basically ended up burning a 10' section of the yard. 

While we were working the three pups basically kept their distance, but then Nike came over. As Mr. B was trying to sush her away, she thought he was trying to give her a belly rub. So poor Nike sat and then rolled over in one of the thinner paths. She them started whimpering and booty scooting around. I ran over and in a matter of seconds she had about 15 of them latched onto both her fur and skin. Of course at this point the other dogs think it's play time! And rush over to help!

All this to say, that the ants outside of the house wouldn't have been nearly as big of a deal if it wasn't for the dogs.

Part of the web. Piles of ants, connected by
trails of ants... yuck!
A lil of LIVE ants. There were at least 6 piles like this.

A couple more of the piles of ants!

We had a few days of no ants and then we had a few days of rain and since then, I haven't seen one since. So for now, we think they are gone.

Tuesday, August 30, 2016

R.I.P. Uncle Rico

“What’s that?”
“Why is my alarm going off so early?”
“Oh wait, my phone is ringing.”

This can’t be good. No one calls in the middle of the night. It’s Latino. He woke me from a really deep sleep, but I’m trying so hard to understand what he is saying. If he is calling in the middle of the night, there must be a robber! Wake up Amanda!

Uncle Rico’s dad is dead.

Let me back up a minute. When we hire a new worker that doesn’t speak English, one of the first things I do is give them a nickname. It’s never fun to hear your name in a conversation and wonder, “What are they saying about me.” So I give nicknames that only Nunu, Latino and I use. If you follow The Widow’s Might on Facebook, you’ve probably seen me refer to Bounassa, our main guard, as Mr. B.

Early this year when we needed a new guard, we asked Mr. B’s youngest brother Raul if he wanted to guard for us. Shortly after we hired him, I gave him the name Uncle Rico (yes as in Napoleon Dynamite).

So back to my phone call.

“Uncle Rico’s dad is dead?” My brain is trying to process, is this Mr. B’s dad too?
Latino keeps talking, “no Uncle Rico got hit on his motorcycle, they took him to the hospital and he died. Uncle Rico is dead.”
“Wait are you saying Uncle Rico, Raul is dead or he is in the hospital?”

“He is dead.”

“Woah.” I’m finally awake.

“Does Mr. B need to go. Tell him he can leave.”

I get off the phone. Nunu and I just lay there both taking turns, saying “Raul is dead?” It’s shocking, he was only 22 or 23.  For me, I hear of death so often here but this is the closest I’ve come to it. The first person I’ve actually known.

The next morning, we wake to get some more details. First off, bless his heart, Mr. B went to the hospital around 12:30 and then came back to continue to work around 3 or 4. It turns out that Uncle Rico and a friend were driving to a village 20 – 30 minutes further out of town and a woman hit the bike. They were both thrown from it. Uncle Rico died at the hospital and his friend is paralyzed.
As we are getting ready to go to Uncle Rico’s house to pay our respects, I ask Nunu when the funeral will be and he says, “today.” Oh okay. Out of respect, I wear a floor length skirt and t-shirt that covers my shoulders.

At about 9:30, Nunu and I left to walk over to Uncle Rico’s. As we near his house, you can tell something is going on in the village. There are more people than usual.

We stop and talk to a guy that has a cut lip. Nunu heard that he fought off a robber, but not before his lip got cut and he got a machete to his shoulder blade. Turns out the robber is the guy that we met and prayed for a few weeks back out near our other property making charcoal. He is now in jail.

We turn the corner to Uncle Rico’s street and look for Mr. B. I see lots of men gathered near Uncle Rico’s house and then glance over to see all the ladies sitting under a large tree. We find Mr. B and seeing him, my eyes water. Mr. B is one of the coolest guys you could ever meet. He is such a smiley, happy, amazing guy. He is such a present father. He is so much that most the men around him aren’t. To see him obviously hurting is really hard for me.

He asks if we want to see the body. I’m just sort of freaked out at this moment. Not sure what I’m supposed to do. Not wanting exceptions to be made for me because I’m white or Mr B’s boss. But honestly not really wanting to leave Nunu’s side. Mr. B says I can go see the body too, but I could tell he hesitated.

Just then Nunu looks over and he sees Binti, Mr. B’s wife! Big sigh of relief, I love Binti and I know even if I don’t understand what is going on, she will take good care of me =)

I wade through the sea of women and their colorful capulanas (African fabric), until I reach Binti and her youngest, Sonya. Binti walks me over to a big tire, so I can sit. I sort of hate that. I can sit on the ground too. Binti sits on the tire, so I join her and we play with Sonya.

Binti, asks me if I want to go see LaHoova, Mr B and Uncle Rico’s mom. She is one of the first women I met in Muxara. So while the introvert in me, would just rather sit in the dirt and observe with everyone else, I go.

We walk into LaHoova’s house. It’s really dark, if she has power, there are no lights on. As I walk into the house, I have to step very carefully. The room we are walking into is about 9’ x 7’ and there are about 15 of the oldest women from our village, some that I’ve never met. A couple of them shook my hand and I felt like they were saying, “Do you remember me?”

I finally found LaHoova laying in the corner, the only one not in a capulana. I couldn’t even tell what she was wearing, but it’s the first time I’ve seen her not in a capulana. As I approached, she pushed her torso off the ground and looked up at me with such devastation. All I could say was, “very sorry” in Portuguese and hope she understood. As I hugged her close and rubbed her back, I prayed for her. I offered her my water bottle and helped her to some water. Knowing my words are inadequate (even if I spoke Macua), I gave her what I could.

Back outside at our tire, I leaned up against it this time and just watched as the women kept coming to pay their respects. I watched as women head to toe draped in capulana sit down, they would casually glance in my direction.

As time went on, the women all talked. I just sat, understanding the occasional word in Macua. In the shade of the big mango tree, the temperature was perfect, but each breeze would bring a slight chill and the women around me would bundle up. They kept asking if I was cold? I love that.

I made the most of my time under the tree, drinking in all of the colorful capulanas as they walked by, listening to women wailing, wondering who they are and what Uncle Rico meant to them, however even on the most comfortable of couches, I change positions a lot. Under that tree, while keeping modesty in mind, I sat “indian style” except both of my feet were not under me, one foot was on my lap. I didn’t think anything of it, until there was a unified gasp that carried around me, it was hilarious. People typically sit with their legs straight out in front of them. I think the women honestly thought something was wrong with my body for it to move like that.

A few hours passed sitting under that tree. Nunu kept saying I think we are about to go to the cemetery, but nothing would happen.

Finally, I noticed all of the men on their feet but none of the women moved, so I too sat. Then a crowd of men started walking away from us down the street. Above their heads was what looked like a huge box with a rounded top, covered in capulanas. I found out later that it was a traditional woven bed, not a box.

A couple of women lost it. I felt a tear roll down my cheek. As I watched his body be carried away, and wiped my eyes, I turned back to my little group of women. One of them looked at me and laughed, a few others snickered. I don’t know why.

My first thought is, is it because I’m white? Do they think my tears are insincere? Then I get insecure, did Uncle Rico say bad things about us after we had to let him go? Or even before? I’ll never really know, but man I need to learn Macua.

The women never get up. One women does and she returns with a metal bowl. I hear the change jingle inside (Harbert – it was a noisy offering!). I look into my purse and get 25 mzn, it’s three coins. As I notice the girl get closer I see that everyone else is only putting one coin and they are mostly 2mzn coins. It’s to late to put a coin or two back in my purse. Ugh… where is the instruction manual for attending a funeral in these parts?!

The girl passes me by, which was actually kind of nice that she didn’t assume I would give. The ladies around me called her back and I did my best to make my three coins drop in as one coin.

A few minutes later, I see a few boys and the men follow shortly after. Slowly the women start to get up and leave, so I go find Nunu and Latino at this point.

My first question to Latino, “why didn’t the ladies go?” “That’s just not how it is done here.” “What if it’s a woman who dies? Is it still just men that go?” “Yes.” I’ve seen other funeral walks and there are women, so I point that out. Latino’s response, “Those were Christian funerals, this was a Muslim.” Oh.

As we go home, I just keep thinking to myself. Uncle Rico has barely been dead 12 hours and he is already in the ground. Wow, that was fast.

As custom requires, Mr. B and his family sit vigil at Uncle Rico’s house for three days. We are actually required by law to give Mr. B five days off and they don’t count against his holidays, but he returned after three days.  

Uncle Rico, Raul, was a bit of a loose cannon but I’ll never forget him. We hired him right after the robberies. I knew that if anyone so much as looked over our fence Raul would have given chase machete in hand… so that he could have a story to tell. I slept good knowing he was out there, knowing that he was just the right amount of crazy to protect us.

Rest in Peace Uncle Rico.

Raul, on the right, handing out candy on Children's Day 2015.